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Merz's 

Practical Cutting System 

for 

Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks 



[1 



Art and Science of Delineating Ladies' Jackets 
and Cloaks as made by Tailors 



[1 



WILLIAM MERZ. of New York 
Author and Publisher 



c^"" 

A^^ 

<^.^^^ 



Copyrighted, Nineteen Hundred and Eleven 
by William Merz 



©CI.A28;J374 



INDEX 

PART I. 

Index 3-4 

Title 1-2 

Preface 5 

PART II. 

Introduction 7 

Measuring 8-9 

PART III. 

Drafting 10 

Capes — 

With Two Darts and Storm Collar 64-65 

Full Cape and Hood 62-63 

Opera Cloak 66-67 

Collars — 

Collarette 64-65 

Marine Collar 60-61 

Shawl Collar 56-57 

Standing Collar 28-29 

Stand and Turnover Collar 54"55 

Storm Collar 5--53 

Turn Collar 50-5 1 

Turn Collar, Closed in Front 5S-59 

Inverness 58-59 

Jackets — 

Eton 26-27 

Frock and Skirt 38-41 

Hunting, Two Pieces 50-51 

Marine Blouse and Skirt 60-61 

Tight-Fitting, One Dart 12-17 

Tight-Fitting, Two Darts 18-19 

Tight Back and Semi-Fitted Front, One Seam Over 

Shoulder 20-2 1 

Tight-Fitting, Two Seams Over Shoulder 22-23 

Tight-Fitting, Three Seams Over Shoulder 24-25 

Small Waist, Flat Back and Full Bust 30-3 1 

Corpulent, Round Back, Two Underarm Pieces .... 32-33 

Three-Ouarter, Tight-Fitting, Three Pieces 54-55 



INDEX. 

Laying Out 70 

Long Coats — 

Tight-Fitting 42-43 

Two Pieces 56-57 

Three Pieces 44-45 

Riding Frock , 38-39 

Sleeves — 

Plain Coat Sleeve 34-35 

Enlarged Bottom 35 

Enlarged Top 36-37 

Raglan Sleeve ^8-4Q 

Yoke Sleeve 46-47 

Styt.es — 

Cut-Off Lapels 38-39 

Double-Breasted Jacket 52-53 

Fly-Front Jacket 50-51 

Single-Breasted Jacket, With Dart Line to the Arm- 

liole 54-55 

Two-Piece Long Coat With Yokes 46-47 

Table of Proportionate Measures 68-69 

Waist Coat, Two Darts 28-29 



PREFACE 

This system was in practical use for many years before it 
was published in book form, and made certain and convenient 
for obtaining correct patterns without the uncertain aid of 
time-wasting and misleading measures. Having had many 
years of practical experience in cutting and pattern drafting 
and a wide acquaintance with the needs of the trade, it lias 
been, therefore, my effort to produce just such a system, scien- 
tific and simple, for the needs of the cutters, and leave nothing 
to perplex or confuse the student. 

With this system it is possible to cut exceptional sizes 
easily and accurately, without extra trouble, and is of great 
value to the trade. 

More illustrations might easily have been given, but tliey 
would only increase the size of the book without adding to its 
thoroughness, as those that are given cover every essential 
point, and are applicable to all variations of the human form 
and the ever-changing vagaries of the fashions. It is my iiope 
that the satisfaction I feel in completing a coat system so com- 
prehensive and reliable will be equaled by all engaged in the 
production of women's tailor-made garments. 

THE AUTHOR. 



PART II 



INTRODUCTION 

The classification in this method is constructed like a train 
of thought, and through that, easier of comprehension and re- 
membrance. Its principles are applicable to all of fashion's 
changes, as it enables one to draft, just as easily and just as 
accurately for abnormal figures as for normal, without any 
additional • complications. 

Progressive cutters who are familiar with other works on 
this subject will find in this useful ideas and recognize its value 
and its practical use to the art. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



For Taking Measures. 

It is well to be provided with one of the inch tapes which 
can he fastened by a buckle for the purpose of defining clearly 
the waist line, and at the same time it shows the waist measure. 

Measuring. 

Pass the inch tape under the right arm as high as possible 
and level to point i, figure i. Having located point i with a 
pin, take measures from o, collar seam, to point i, to point 2 
waist level and back waist. For normal figures these measures 
would be 6%, I54<^, i5/4. and recpired length of garment. 
Then put the measuring tape on point o, back center; take 
measures to 3, to 4, to 5, to 6, and to back center point i 
without removing the measuring tape from o. These meas- 
ures would be 6^. 14, 21^, iij4,2i^. Take the front depth 
measure, 6, by feeling with the forefinger where the underarm 
seam is to be. Take bust measure level, but rather lower in 
front than higher. 

The hip measure is to be taken 5'X inches below the waist 
line, and it is jM-eferable to mark the distance with a \)\n. 

To take the sleeve length, keep the inch tape between fore 
and middle finger, ])ass the hand under the arm and measure 
to point 10; keep the tape on 10 and measure the length to 
point II. All measures are as follows: 

1. Back depth 6% 

2. Waist length, level 1554 

Waist length, on liack 1514 

Length of garment 

3- Neck 6^ 

4. Height of bust 14 

5. Front waist length 21^ 

6. Front depth 1114 

Blade (control measure) 2154 

7. Bust 36 

8. Waist 25 

9- Hip 40 

10 & II. Sleeve 714, 18 

All the measures, e.xcept the hip, should be taken over a 
waist or a smooth-fittino- bodice. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 





Figure I. 



Figure 11. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



PART III 



Drafting. 



In all of the following explanations, wherever the frac- 
tions Yi, Yi, Ya, Yb' %> Vi2' Vie. bust, waist, hip, etc., are 
used, they are, according to the several divisions, half of the 
full sizes, unless expressly stated full bust, full waist, full 
hip, etc. 

The divisions will be found on the ordinary drafting 
square. The blade measure is used for control measure, and 
the neck measure for close neck fitting garments. 

The drafts are the exact widths and lengths and must be 
sewed in the lines, therefore the seams have to be allowed on 
the goods. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram I. 

The measures : 

Back depth 6% Front depth 1 1^2 

Level waist length. . . 15^4 Full bust 36 

Back waist length. . . . 15J4 Fi-iH waist 25 

Front waist length... 21 J4 

To draft : Draw square lines from i to 2 and from i to 3. 
From point i to 4 is J/^ bust, less J4 inch, 2 inches for this 
draft. From i to 5 is -j-i inch, or V24 bi-ist under sizes of 36 
bust, and cur\'e the line from 5 to 4, as represented. From 5 
to 6 is back depth, 6% inches; to 7 is level waist line, 15^. 
inches; to 8 is shorter back waist line, 15^4 inches; to 2 from 
point 7 is 5^ inches on each draft, and square out the lines 
from 6 to 9, from 7 to 10, from 2 to 11, and from 8 to 19, as 
represented. From 7 'to 12 is i inch, or Vm bust, for sizes 
under 36 bust; draw the lines from 12 to 5 and 12 to 13 per- 
pendicular with the outside -line, and from 12 to R, which is 
V32 of the hip measure 20 = 5^ inch from point 13 on this draft. 

On the bust line from 14 to 15 is J4 bust, 9 inches; from 
15 to 16 is V12 bust, 134 inches; point 17 is in the center of 
15 and 16; draw the center line from 17 to 19 square from 
the bust line. From 17 to 18 is ^ bust and JA inch. This 
measure is to be taken from center point 17, and is worthy of 
remark. Then bust measure and ]/> inch from 14 to 9= i8j4 
inches for 36 full bust. 

On the waist line fnjin center point 19 to 20 is yi waist = 
6^4 inches, and from 20 to 21 waist measure, i2'/4 inches. 
Draw the front part guide line from 18 through 21 downwards 
to establish 22, and from 21 through 18 upwards to establish 
2^. Front-depth measure is 113/^ inches. Take the back 
measure from 5 tO' 4 = 2 inches, and with this amount continued 
from 16 to 23, where iiyi inches reach the line. Square out 
from 23 to 24; from 23 to 24 is i^ bust. Draw a straight line 
from 24 through 9, which establishes 10 and 11.' From 24 to 
25 is % bust, and cur\-e the collar line as represented. Point 26 
is % bust from 14, and draw the front shomlder line from 2t, 
to 26. To establish the back width, point 28, take half from 
14 and 17 and i^^ inches = 63/^ inches on this draft, from 14 
to 28. Draw the lines from 28 to 29 and from i('> to 2y parallel 
with the back center line, 14 to 5. l-'roni point 16 to 27 is ,'4 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



13 




Diagram I. 



bust less jS inch. Draw the back sh.mlder line from 27 to 4 
At point 29 the slioulder seam is enlarged 14 inch. For small 
sleeves it should be enlarged ^ inch. Take the measure from 
4 to 29 and carry it over from 2:, to 30: then draw the arm- 
hole from 29 t(j 30, as represented. 



14 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram II. 

The measures : 

Back depth 6% Front waist length. . . 21^ 

Level waist lengili. . . i5-;-:4 Front depth 11^ 

Back waist length. . . . 153-4 Fw'l bust 36 

Height of bust 14 Full waist 25 

The waist width necessary is from point 20 to 21. From 
20 to 12 is back waist surplus, and from 21 to 10 is front waist 
surplus. These are to be cut out as follows : 

Draw the line from 29 to 12, which establishes K. From 
12 to A is 34 back width. From A to B is ^/i,-, bust, ij/s inches 
to be cut out. From B to C is % waist and 3^ inch. From 
C to D is 3/2 inch, for cutting out on all drafts. From D to E 
is 34 inch more than from B to C. From E to F is i3^ inches, 
which is the balance from the 3 inches back-waist surplus. 

*G is the center of E and F; on carry over the same dis- 
tance from 17 to H as F to G. From H to I is 34 inch less 
than I to K. Draw the guide lines from K to A and from K 
to B, from H to E and from H to F, frnm I to C and from 
I to D. 

The height of the hust is 14 inches, and the front waist 
length 21% inches. Begin to measure from 5 to 4, which is 2 
inches, and from 23 to L is the balance of the required 14 
inches. M is the balance of the front waist length. 2i->4 inches. 
L is 3^ inch inside of the front part guide line on all drafts. 
From 10 to M is 34 inch; from M to N 3/^ waist and 34 inch. 
Front waist surplus from 21 to M is 4 inches on this draft; 
these 4 inches are to be cut out from N to Q. 

Draw guide lines from 9 to M, from L to N, and from 
L to Q. Draw the front waist line from M to N directed to 
point 19. Pivot at L and transfer the length from N to O. 

Pivot at K on I and H, and transfer the length from A 
to B, from C to D, and from E to F. This represents the 
waist line and has to be carefullv notched. 



*See G in Diagram III. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



IS 




Diagram II. 



i6 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram III. 



TIGHT-FITTING JACKET, ONE DART. 
The measures : 



Back depth 

Level waist lengtli . 
Back wa,ist lengtli. . 
Heiglit of bust .... 
Front waist lenath . 



6% 
21M 



Front (lc])th 11^ 

Control measure .... 21 '4 

Full bust 36 

Full waist 25 

Full hip 40 



Take the hip measure from 22 to R = i6-)4 inclies on this 
draft. The necessary hip measure is 20 and ]A inch for ease 
= 20_}.4 inches. The balance of 3-54 inches has to be added as 
follows: Draw a perpendicidar line from A to 32. From 29 
to 31 is y^ back depth. Curve the line frnm 31 through K and 
A to S, which is % inch from 32. Draw the guide lines from 
I through the center of C and D to establish T, and from G 
to U parallel with ]>revious line. Divide the balance 3^4 inches 
in five equal parts, which is -J^ inch each, and add one on each 
side of U, one on each side of T, and the fifth -)4 inch on the 
side of S ; draw guide lines from B to the side of S ; from C 
and D, from E and F to each side of T, and each side of U. 
Then draw the front center line from M to V parallel with the 
outside line. From V to W is y% inch more than from M to N. 
The nieasure from 22 to V is hip surplus 4^^ inches on this 
draft and has to be cut out from W to Z. Draw guide lines 
from Q to Z and from N to \V. Curve all lines as represented 
and the draft is ready to be cut out. The length lines are ex- 
plained in styles. About the use ()f the cuntri)] measure, see 
Diagrams X. and XL 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 17 




Diagram III. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram IV. 
TIGHT^FITTING JACKET. TWO DARTS. 

All following drafts where no special measures are given 
are from the tahle of proportional measures of 36 bust. 

For two darts the front center line, 10 to M and 11 to V, 
is J4 inch. Pivot at 25 and draw a circular line through L to 
establish the height of the darts and put the darts, 43 and 44, 
'/12 bust apart on each side of L. From M to N is % waist; 
from N to O is V12 bust to be cut out; from O to P is ^/^a 
bust ; from P to O is the balance of the front waist surplus 
21 to M = 2;>4 inch on this draft. From V to W is J4 inch 
more than from M to N ; from W to X ^ inch more than 
from N to O to be cut out ; from X to Y is 14 inch more than 
O to P; from Y to Z is the balance of the hip surplus 22 to V 
= 3 inches on this draft. 

Then draw the guide lines from 9 to M ; from M to V ; 
from the first dart point 43 to N ; from N to W ; from 43 to O ; 
from O to X ; and from the second dart point 44 to P ; from 
P to Y; from 44 to O; from O to Z. Draw the front waist 
line from M to N, directed to center point, 19; pivot at the 
first dart point, 43, to transfer the length N to O; draw also 
the front waist line from O to P. Pivot at the second dart 
point, 44, and transfer the length frnm P to O, and draw the 
waist line from O to center point, 19. Then curve the darts, 
as represented. ' 

All other points are explained in the i)recetling diagrams. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 19 




Diagram IV. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram V. 

JACKET SEMI-FITTED FRONT, SEAM OVER 
SHOULDER. 

Tlie front center for semi-fitted front from lO to M and 
1 1 to V is ^ inch inside of the straight Hne. From M to N 
is '/s waist ; from V to W j6 inch more than from M to N. 
From N to is half of the front waist surpkis from 21 to M 
= ij4. inches on this draft. From W to Z take y2 inch more 
as Q from N 2% inches on this draft. 

For one. seam over shoulder draw a guide line from 33 to 
A, which establishes K. On point 33 is }i, inch to be cut out 
on the side piece; add this }i inch from 29 to 31 and curve the 
lines as represented. Transfer the width of the side piece, 31 
and 33 to the front shoulder, 30 and 34, and draw the line from 
34 through the dart point to N and to W, and from the dart 
point to Q and to Z. The divisions for the side pieces on bust, 
waist and hip lines are the same as explained in Diagrams II. 
and III. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 21 




Diagram V. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram VI. 

TIGHT-FITTING JACKET, TWO SEAMS OVER 
SHOULDER. 

For two seams over the shoulder, divide the back width 
from 14 to 28 in three parts and give from 14 to 38 and 38 to 
K each one-third of it. From H to I is J4 inch less than I to K. 
The back center point, R, is only ^ inch from 13 on this draft. 
From 12 to 39 is ^, back width; draw a guide line from 39 
through 38 to establish 34, and draw perpendicular line from 
39 to 32. From 39 to 40 is 34 i"ch to be cut out; draw guide 
line from 40 to 38, and from 40 to 42, which overlaps J^ inch 
from 32. From 40 to A is % back width, the same as 12 to 39. 
Draw guide line from A through K to establish 36, and a per- 
pendicular line from A to S. From A to B is ^/i,, bust less ^4 
inch, to be cut out ; for the side piece, B to C, is Yh waist less 
Yd inch. The other waist and hip divisions are the same as in 
Diagrams II. and III., only in measuring the hip on this draft, 
nieasure from R to 32 with the amount from 42 to 22, which 
will give 1734 inches on this draft. 

Transfer the back shoulder seams exact to the front shoul- 
der as 36 to 37 and 34 to 35. On back shoulder, point 36, is 
^ inch to be cut out on the side piece ; add this amount on the 
armhole, point 29, as represented. 

On this draft, from L to 43 and from L to 44, from O 
to P and from X to Y is each Y iiich less than V12 bust. 

Draw the lines as represented to give the l^est style effect. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



23 




Diagram VI. 



24 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram VII. 

TIGHT-FITTING JACKET, THREE SEAMS OVER 
SHOULDER. 

For three seams over shoulder, divide the back width from 
14 to 28 in four parts, and give from 14 to 38, from 38 to J, 
and from J to K each one-fourtl: of the back width. 

The back center point, R. is ^4. "ich from the perpendicu- 
lar Hne on this draft. 

From 12 to 39 is y^ back width; from 39 to i- is Vs inch 
to be cut out ; from s to 40 is Yg, back wicUh ; from 40 to d is 
y inch to be cut out, and from d to A is }i Isack width as from 
12 to 39, and from s to 40. 

Draw guide lines from 39 through 38, which establi.shes 
34, and a perpendicular line from 39 to 32; from .? to 38, and 
from i" to 42 which overlaps 3/^ inch from 32. 

Draw guide line from 40 through J, which establishes 
36, and perpendicular line from 40 to 41, from d to J, and 
from d to 3, which overlaps }i inch from 41. 

Draw guide line from A through K, and a perpendicular 
line from A to S. Shape the line from K to 29, as represented. 

From A to B is Vis bust less }i inch, to be cut out. For 
the side piece, B to C is J/^ waist less y^ inch. The rest of the 
waist divisions are the same as Diagram II. 

To measure the hip on this draft, measure from R to 32, 
with this amount from 42 to 41, and with this amount from 
3 to 22, which will give lyyi inches, and is the same addition 
as Diagram III. 

Transfer the back seams to the front shoulder seams, as 
29, 36, 34 to 30, ^y, 35. From bust height, L, to 43 anti L 
to 44 is each ^/jo bust. 

On drafts with three darts on leave the front center line 
straight. From M to N is J^ waist ; from N to O is V12 bust 
less y2 inch, to be cut out; from O to i is V12 bust less y>- 
inch ; from i to 2 is V12 bust less 3/2 inch, to be cut out ; from 
2 to P is Vi2 bust less J/i inch, as from O to i ; from P to O 
is the balance of the waist surplus from 21 to ]\I, which is 2j>2 
inches on this draft. 

The hip surplus from 22 to V is {/ inch more than the 
waist surplus from 21 to M, therefore each dart on the hip line 
is y inch more, to be cut out as follows : 

From V to W is>f, inch more th'an from M to N ; from 
W to X is i/^ inch more than from N to O ; from X to 5 is 5^^ 
inch more than from O to i ; from 5 to 6 is ^ inch more than 
from I to 2 : from 6 to Y is Mi inch more than from 2 to P ; 



For Ladies' Tackets and Cloaks. 



25 




Diagram VII. 



from Y to Z is the balance of the hip surphis from 22 to V, 
which is 25/^ inches on this draft. 

Draw guide hnes from N to 43, and from N to W ; from 
O to 43, and from O to X ; from i to L. and from i to 5 ; from 
2 to L, and from 2 to 6 ; from P to 44, and from P to Y ; from 
O to 44, and from O to Z. 

Sliape the Hnes from 30 to 44, from 35 to 43, and from 
37 to L, as represented. 

Transfer the waist notches carefully by pivoting in center 
of lines 43, L, 44, 38, J, K, as garments with- so many seams 
could easily get inches out of balance. 



26 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram VIII. 

TIGHT-FITTING ETON JACKET. 

For one-piece Eton back, from 12 to D is 5-< inch, from 
D to E is 3^ waist, from E to ig is the balance of the back 
waist surplus from 20 to D. 

G is the center of E and 19. Transfer the distance from 
19 to G to the bust line from 17 to establish H. Draw gxiide 
lines from H to E and H to 19, from 14 to D, and short waist 
line from 8 to E. 

The front part is the same as in Diagrams II. and III. 

After the dart is cut out, notch the waist line, N and O ; 
lay the dart together, notch N to notch O, and draw the line 
from 19 to the desiretl style length, V, which establishes W 
and Z. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 27 




Diagram VIII. 



28 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram IX. 

WAIST COAT, TWO DARTS. 

For vVaists, Bodices, or Princess garments, as they are to 
be worn over the corset cover, change the bust, waist and hip 
measure- to one size smaller. For example : 36 full bust to 35, 
25 full waist to 24J/2, 40 full hip to 39, and then draft as regu- 
lar. The back width from 14 to 28 is ^ inch less for waist 
coats, and the armholes draw ^ inch deeper. From 12 to A 
is % waist = 3Vig inch for 1234 inch waist; from A to B is 
Vio bust, to be cut out ; from B to E is ^ waist, the same as 
from 12 to A; from E to 19 is the balance of the back waist 
surplus. Draw the lines from 28 to A, from 28 to B. from 15 
to E, and from 15 to 19. Pivot at 28 and transfer the length 
A to B; pivot at 15 and transfer the length E to 19. The 
divisions for the darts are the same as in Diagram IV. After 
the front darts are cut out and the waist lines notched, lay the 
darts together, N to O and P to O, to draw the line from F 
(which is I inch lower from 19) to the desired front length, 
V ; this establishes W, X, Y and Z. 



TO DRAFT THE STANDING COLLAR. 

From 25 to 51 is ^/^^ fidl neck=ij<i inches, and from 
23 to 50 is Vii; f'-ill neck = % inch. Draw straight line from 
51 through 50 to establish 52. Point 52 is the neck length, 
6^ inches from 25. Square out from 52 to 53. Point 53 is 
1^2 inches for the height from 52. Draw the line from 25 
to 54 square with 31 and 25: from 25 to 54 is 1% inches. 
Draw the line 53 parallel with the line from 52 to 51, and 
shape it to 54. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 29 




Diagram IX. 



30 Merz's Practical Cutting, System 

Diagram X. 

JACKET— SMALL WAIST, FLAT BACK AND FULL 

BUST. 

Measures : 

6%, 15M. 15M. 6;]4, 14, 21.34. ii>4. 2oy^. 36, 23, 39. 

The bust line points, from 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 9, are divi- 
sions of the bust measure and are throughout the same on all 
drafts without displacement by small or large blades. From 
center point, 19 to 20, is ^ waist = 5->-4 inches, and from 19 to 
21 is ^ waist =5^ inches. 

On this draft the full waist measure is 2 inches under 
normal. Add for each inch 54 of an inch from 21 to 41. Draw 
the front part guide line from 41 through 18 to establish 23, 
and from 41 to 42. Draw the line from 21 to 22 parallel with 
the previous line, 41 and 42. 

It is very important to remark that the front part guide 
line has to be drawn from normal waist point through 18, as 
well on a child's draft, or on 50 bust measure. 

NoDiial is II inches difference from bust, full measure. 

(For example, 30 inches bust and 22 inches waist is 3 
inches over normal, the fourth full waist = 5^ inches, comes 
more to the front center line, and the fourth full normal waist 
is 3 inches less and comes to lay ^4 i"ch inside, or 4-)4 inches 
from center point, 19. The advantage is that it moves the 
shoulder point, 23, and the front hip point to the right place 
and gives ^ inch less darts as the form requires.) 

From A to B is ^/j,; bust on all drafts of that style, and 
the front dart, N to O, is V12 bust, more or less, surplus. The 
control measure is 2o34- Lay the front depth measure 11^4 
inches on center point, 17, and measure from 17 to 14: the 
2034 inches will be J4 inch inside of 14. Take % inch from 
14 and hollow the back center; yg inch of the side piece K, 
and }i inch on each side of I. If the control measure is 20j4, 
leave the 34 '"ch in the front armhole on the line 16 to 27. The 
/4 inch taken off the back should be put on the front center 
and the line curved as represented. As front waist and hip 
surplus is from 21 to M and 22 to V, measure the hip from R 
to 22. The additions, S, T, U, are the same as in previous 
diagrams. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 31 




"* (S 



Diagram X. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XL 

JACKET— CORPULENT, ROUND BACK, TWO 
UNDERARM PIECES. 
Measures : 

81^, 17, 854. 17- 23^, 14M- VY-- 48, 40, 54- 

As the bust Hue poiuts are the same on all drafts, having 
drawn the center line from 17 to 19 and marked, from 19 to 
20 and 19 to 21 ; J4 f^-'H or /^ waist, which is 10 inches on this 
draft. Before drawing the front-part guide line, make certain 
by every draft; if the waist normal or how many inches ab- 
normal on full measures. 

As the waist measure for this draft is 3 inches over normal, 
from 21 to 41 is Y\ inch; and the front-part guide line is to be 
drawn from 41 through 18 to establish 23, and from 41 to 42. 
Draw the line from 21 to 22 parallel with the previous line, 
41 to 42. The front center line leave straight, as a client with 
this kind of measure is more flat chested. 

As large side pieces on tight-fitted garments are not suc- 
cessful, it is good to start with two underarm pieces from 32 
full waist measure. 

For two underarm pieces, from 12 to- A is ^4 ii^ch less 
than 14 back width; from A to B is Vic bust on all drafts; 
from B to 38 is V^ waist less ^ inch ; from 38 to 39 is ;^ inch, 
to be cut out ; from 39 to C is % inch more than from B to 38 ; 
from C to D is Yz inch, to be cut out ; from D to E is ^ inch 
more than from 39 to C ; from E to F is the balance of the 
back waist surplus from 20 to 12. On this draft, the center 
point, 19, is in the center of E and F, and the underarm seam 
should never cross nearer the front. From K to J is one-third, 
and Yi inch of the distance from K to 17; from J to T is one- 
third, and from I to 17 is one-third less Yi inch. 

The control measure, 273^, shows Y^ inch over normal, 
for which gi\-e to the side pieces on K Y'i inch and to the under- 
arm piece on J V?- inch more. 

Measure the hip from R to 22 and divide the additions 
into seven parts; add one to S; one on each side of 40; T 
and U. 

The front waist surplus is from 21 to M, and hip surplus 
from 22 to V. On the first dart is \/io bust to be cut out, and 
on the second dart the balance of the surplus, as on all drafts 
with two darts. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



33 




34 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XII. 
PLAIN COAT SLEEVE. 

This draft represents the same as if the sleeve were drawn 
witli a different colored chalk on the coat draft. The line i6, 
27, 56 is a parallel line with the back center line, which brings 
the bottom of the sleeve point, 56, about i inch forward, which 
it requires. 

Lay the coat draft upon another piece of paper; trace 
through the armhole, the bust line, and the line 27 to 16. Draw 
the line from 27 through 16 to 56, which is the length, 18 
inches, from 16. From 16 to 55 is the curve, 73^ inches. From 
55 to 57 is \/,2 of the sleeve length. Draw the center lines 
from 56 to 57 and from 57 to 16. Draw the elbow line from 
57 to 58 square with the line 57 and 56, and the bottom line 
from 56 to 59 square with the back armhole and 56. Point 27 
is the same as on the coat draft. Draw the line from 27 to 61 
level with the bust line. From 27 to 61 is half of the armhole 
measure, 8 inches on this draft. From 27 to 60 and 61 to 63 
is each Vj,; of the armhole width. In the center, from 60 and 
61 is 62; draw perpendicular line from 62 to 64. Point 64 is 
•}4 inch lower from bust line on all drafts. Pivot at 64 and 
draw circular line from 60 through 61 to 10. Draw the under- 
arm sleeve line from 63 so it touches the armhole on point i. 
To transfer the front seam, from 16 to i and 16 to 2 is ■)4 inch 
each ; from 57 to 3 and 57 to 4 is ;54 "ich each ; from 56 to 5 
and 56 to 6 is I inch each. Draw guide lines and curve the 
lines from 2 to 4 and 4 to 6 ; from i to 3 and 3 to 5. From 
16 to ,? is one-third of the distance from 16 to 27. Curve the 
overarm line from> 60 through s to 2. For the width of the 
wrist, from 56 to 59 is one-fourth armhole and jA inch. For 
the width of the elbow, from 57 to 58 is one-third of the arm- 
hole and ^ inch. Point (/ is the intended place for the seam 
to come, and point 9 is the required length of the armhole from 
I to d. Pivot at 58 and sweep the length 9 to 10. To transfer 
the elbow seam, from 38 to 7 and 58 to 8 is -)4 '"ch each. Draw 
guide lines and curve the lines from 9 to 7, from 7 to 59, from 
10 to 8, and from 8 to 59. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



35 




Diagram XII. 

ENLARGED BOTTOM SLEEVE. 

Point 70 in Diagram XIL is 11 inches from 56. Draw 
straight hne from 70 to the center of 61 and 63. Pivot in the 
center from 70 and 61 and sweep the length from 59 to 70. 
Fold the paper at the line from 70 to the center of 61 and 63, 
and trace through the underarm lines, from 63 to i, 3, 5, 59 
to 70. Unfold the paper and cut the overarm sleeve from 6 
to 4, 2, .? 60 and 61 ; from 61 in the dressed line to i, 3, 5, 70, 
and to 6. 



36 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XIII. 
ENLARGED TOP SLEEVE. 

The enlargement un tlii.s draft is 7 inches. The elhow 
point, 58, is Yi inch more than in Diagram XII. Pivot at 58 
and sweep the length from 9 to 11. Point 1 1 is 7 inches from 
10. Draw straight line from 1 1 to 60. In the center, from 
60 and II is 62 ; draw the line from 62 to 64 square with the 
line 1 1 and 62. 

Point 64 is Yx inch lower from the hust line, same as in 
Diagram XII. 

Pivot at 64 and draw circular line from 60 to 11. From 
58 to 7 and 58 to 8 is 134 inches each. Draw guide line from 
1 1 to 8 and curve the line from 1 1 to 8 about Ya '"ch from the 
giiide line in the center of 8 and 1 1 . All other points are the 
same as explained for Diagram XII. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 37 




Diagram XIII. 



38 Merz's Practical Cutting System 

Diagram XIV. 
RIDING FROCK COAT. 

Draw tip the same lines as for Diagram IV. Draw 
straight hne through R to 44, which is the length, 36 inches. 
The draft is the same for longer or shorter length. Draw 
straight line from A through S to 45, and draw level line from 
44 to 46. The front center line draw straight down from M 
through V to 46. The coat back opening is opposite J, the 
skirt seam effect, which is i^ inches from short waist line, A 
and B. From level waist line, M to d. is 4 inches. For the 
lapels, from M to 43 and d to 48, is ^ inch. The width of 
the lapels is the same as from the front center line to the first 
dart. Draw the line from 49 to 51, where the opening is likely 
to be had. Draw the style for the turning-over lapels from 
49 to 42, fold the paper underneath in the line 49 to 51, 
and trace the lines through. When the paper is unfolded, you 
will have the whole outside edge of the lapels. Cut out the 
back with the style of the coat back opening and with the fold 
on J and 45. Trace off the side, underarm pieces and forepart 
with the hip run upon another piece of paper. After having 
cut out the pattern, lay the waist dart notches, N to O and P 
to O, F to E and D to C, together with the hip run and draw 
the required body style line from (/ to J. 

TO DRAFT THE SKIRT. 

From M to N is ^ waist. Draw the line from N to 7 
and 6 parallel with the skirt frout center, 46 to M. From N 
to 7 is ^ waist; from 7 to 6 is % waist, which is y^i inches 
for 12^2 waist. 

Pivot at 6 and sweep the waist line from N to 12. the hip 
line from W to R, and from the length line 46 to 44. M to 12 
represents the level waist line. Measure the hip on the hip line 
from V to R ; 20 inches hip and 3^ inch for ease is 20^ inches 
from V to R. Lay the square on, sweep point 6 and R and 
draw straight line from 12 through R to 44. Lay the back 
center of the cut-out back, level waist line to 12, and hip line 
R to R, and length 44 to 44, to take the back width off from 
the skirt from 12 to A, from R to S, and from 44 to 45. Draw 
the shorter back waist line from B, as represented. From A 
to B is J4 inch, to be cut out, and draw the line from B to S. 
Lay the waist notches of the side and underarm pieces, B, C, 
D and E. upon the waist line of the skirt, and take off from 
the skirt the same distance there is on the coat below the waist 
line, and draw the skirl line from d to T- 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 39 



4^ 



/ 




40 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XV. 
CLOSE-FITTED, FROCK-COAT SKIRT. 

To draft the skirt separate, draw a straight line for the 
front center, as M, V and 46. Square in the waist line from 
M to N; the hip line from V to W, which is 5^ inches from 
M : then the length, 46, which is 20j4 inches from the level 
waist line, M. From M to N is 3/5 waist. Draw the line from 
N to 7 and 6 parallel with the previous line. After having 
swept out the waist, hip and length lines as explained in previ- 
ous diagram, and the lines drawn, lay the front part, the level 
waist line, N, to the skirt draft, N, even with the front center 
to draw the line from d to F. Do the same with the underarm 
pieces, D to J. Draw the line from D to T with the hip run of 
th.e side piece, and from F to U with the hip run of the under- 
arm piece. Cut the skirt out from d to F. D, J, S, 45, 46 and 
to d. Fold the skirt in the lines F, U to 47, and D, T to 48. 
Cut the lines from F to U and from D to hip line, T. 

To draft the first dart, lay the pattern upon another piece 
of paper and draw from the corner, 46, to d, and from (/ to F. 
To keep the pattern on the lines, put weights upon it. Spread 
the cut E from F Vio ''■'P i/4 inches for 20 hip, and lay the 
pattern flat into a pleat from U to 47, and draw the dart from 
U to F, and from U to E, and to D. Put weights upon this 
part and spread C from D V24 'lip M inch for this draft and 
lay the pattern flat from T to 48. Draw the dart from T to D, 
from T to C, and all around from C to J. 45. 46. From 46 to 
45 curve the line as represented. 

The spreading of the darts. F to E and D to C, is only 
good for this style of draft. For example, if the skirt seam 
is between F and U and D and T, the dart spreading from F 
to E and D to C would be half the amount. 

This kind of skirt is to be worn for street costume. 



S 12! 



'Z-^- 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 41 




Diagram XV. 



42 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XVI. 
LONG COAT. TI(;HT-FITTING. 

Draw up tlie same draft as fcjr Diagram IV., two darts. 
For the lower liip lines, draw as follows: 

Lay the yard-stick Y^ inch outside of the back center on 
waist line and draw straight line from R to 44. Draw the line 
from 44 to 46 level with the hip line, which represents the 
length, and is the same for longer or shorter coats. 

Lay the yard-stick Yx inch outside the line A and draw 
straight line from S to 45. 

For the side piece lay the yard-stick the same distance out- 
side of B as I from S and draw straight line from i to 47, and 
lay the yard stick on D and draw straight line from 3 to 48. 

For the underarm piece, lay the yard-stick on C and draw 
straight line from 2 to 49. Lay the yard-stick the same dis- 
tance from E as 5 from U and draw straight line from 5 to 50. 
The same distance from 19 as 4 from U and draw straight line 
from 4 to 51. 

Draw straight lines from M, V to 46; from N, W to 55: 
from O, X to 54 ; from P, Y to 53 ; and from O, Z to 52. 

J is 2 inches lower from shorter waist line, and the dotted 
lines represent the coat back opening and pleat opposite J. 

To draw the bottom line of the back, pivot at the point of 
collar and shoulder line and sweep the line from 44 out and 
inside to 45. Transfer the length from A, 45 to B, 47; to 
C, 48; to D, 49; to E, 50; and to 19, 51 : and curve the lines, 
as represented. Pivot at the point of collar and front center 
line and sweep the line from 46 to 55. Transfer the length 
from the waist notches, N, 55 to O, 54 ; from P, 53 to O, 52. 
Curve the lines from 51 to 52 and 53 to 54. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 43 




Diagram XVI. 



44 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XVII. 

THREE-PIECE LONG COAT, SEMI-FITTED FRONT 
AND BACK. 

From 12 to A is ^ Avaist ; from A to B is ^/j,, bust, to be 
cut out; from B to E is ^4 waist, aud ig to E is the balance 
of the back waist surplus. R is V24 'lip from 13, which is % 
inch for 20 hip. Draw perpendicular lir.:; from A to hip line : 
enlarge the back 3-4 inch, which represents S. Draw lines from 
12 to R, lay the square ^ inch from back center on waist line 
and draw straight line from R to 44. Draw the line from A 
to S and from S to 45, as represented. Measure the hip from 
R to 22 and divide the addition into four parts and add 34 from 
S to T and % from T to 3. Transfer the distance from D and 
G at the waist line to the hip line from T to U, and give 34 oi 
the addition on each side of U. Draw guide lines from A to K, 
from B to K, from E to H, and from 19 to H. Lay the yard- 
stick the same distance from E as 5 from U and draw straight 
line from 5 to 48, the same direction from 4 to 49, and from 
3 to 47. Curve the lines from K to S, from K to 3, froiu 11 
to 5, and from H to 4. as represented. 

For semi-fitting front, from 10 to M and 11 to V is -J^ 
inch ; from M to N is >^ waist ; from N to Q is ^ of the front 
waist surplus. From V to W is ^/i inch more than from M 
to N. From W to Z is the variation of hip and waist surplus, 
which is 3^ inch more than from N to O. 

Draw giiide lines from O through Z to 50, from N through 
W to 5 1 , and from M through V to 46. Pivot at the point of 
collar and front center line and sweep the line from 46 to 51. 
Transfer the length from N and 51 to Q and 50. Pivot at 
the back point of collar and shoulder line and sweep the line 
from 44 to 45. Transfer the length A and 45 to B and 47; 
the same length to E and 48 ; to 19 and 49. Curve the lines as 
represented. 

For clients with full side liii). (li\ide the hip addition in 
three parts and a<l(l ' ,i from S to 3 and ' ."i on each side of U. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 45 




Diagram XVII. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XVIII. 
LOOSE COAT WITH YOKE SLEEVES. 

For drafts of one piece back, the back center, R, on liip 
line is '/jj hip from 13. Draw straiglit line from 26 through 
R to 44. 

For loose front without dart, the front center line, M, is 
I inch from 10. Draw straight line from 9 tln-ough M to es- 
tablish V and 46. 

The underarm seam. H, is in the center of 17 and 28. 
Draw perpendicular line from H to hip line, U. As this is a 
very loose coat, measure the hip from 13 to 22, which is 16^ 
inches on this draft. The balance, 3)4 inches, of 20 inches 
hip and i inch for ease is an addition of 4^ inches from T to 
S, or 2^ inches each side of U. Draw the back line from H 
through T to 45. and front line from H through S to 47. 

The shoulder seam has to be transferred to the center of 
the shoulder. To find the center, measure from 16 bust line 
around the armhole to 28 bust line. The half of this measure 
is froni 28 to 35. The same amount which is put to the shoul- 
der liiie from 29 to 35 is to be taken off from the front shoulder 
line to 36. Draw the back yoke line from 26 to d and the front 
yoke Iii)e from s to 38. On every yoke style, the line .<■ should 
be at least i inch deeper than d. 

From the front center, 9, to 32, from M to 33, and from 
V to 34 is an overlap oi ijA inches. From 38 to 37 is ^ inch, 
to be cut out. Draw the line as represented and lengthen this 
y> inch at the bottom point, 46. Pivot at H and sweep from 
center length line to 45 and to 47. Draw the bijtloiu lines from 
44 to 45 and from 47 to 46. 

Trace the whole pattern off upon another uiece of paper 
and use the yokes to draft the sleeve. It is preferable to draft 
tlie sleeve upon the same draft with a different colored chalk. 
Draw the line 27 through 16 straight down to 56 and from 27 
to 61 level with the bust line and continue the whole sleeve 
draft as given in Diagram XII. Take the back yoke and ])lace 
d and 35 to the top sleeve circular line and continue the sleeve 
with the yoke line, d, to 26, 5, 4, 64, 65, and to 66, as repre- 
sented. Place the front yoke to the circular line, 60, so that 
.f from .? is ^ inch apart, and draw the line from 64 to 23, 38, 
and to s where the sleeve is to be reconnected, as represented. 
Notch the sleeve at 64, as the balance of the coat dejicnds on 
thai line, as well as on the underarm seam of (he co;it. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 47 




Diagram XVIll. 



48 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XIX. 
RAGLAN SLEEVE. 

As center of sleeve and center of slioulder liarmonize in 
this kind of sleeve, transfer the shoulder seam carefully to the 
center, as in Diagram XVIII. On this draft the overarm 
sleeve is ^/n, of the armhole width smaller and the overarm 
point approaches to the underarm sleeve, point 63, and the cen- 
ter point, 62, on this draft is from 60 to 63, instead of 60 and 
61. Draw perpendicular line from 62 to 64 and up to 65. Pivot 
at center point, 64, and draw circular line from 60 through 63 
to 67 and continue the sleeve draft the same as in Diagram 
XII, only the overarm sleeve on this draft is Vio width smaller; 
for this, curve the line from 67 to the elbow to the outside of 
the guide line. 

Lay a piece of paper underneath and trace off the lines 
from d to 33, to 4, to 35, and to d; cut it out, and lay the 
shoulder line to the sleeve center line,. 64 and 65, the shoulder 
and armhole point, 35, even with the overarm circular line, and 
draw the line t,;^ to 63 and to 67 where you will have -Yi inch 
more for required fullness to give the sleeve a good hang. Cut 
out the front piece from i- to 34, to 23, to 36, and to s; place 
it on the sleeve center line and connect the line 33 to 34 and 
to ,?. The sleeve from i to 34 will be about i inch more for 
required fullness. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



49 




Diagram XIX. 



50 Merz's Practical Cutting System 

Diagram XX. 
HUNTING JACKET— TURN COLLAR, FLY FRONT. 

For this draft, R is Vig li'P from 13, from 12 to A is ^ 
waist, from A to B is Vhi bust. Draw guide line from A to K, 
which is I inch from 28, and from B to K. Draw perpendicu- 
lar line from A to establish U. Measure the hip from R to 22, 
which is ijYz inches, and add the balance of 20 hip and 3^ inch 
for ease from T to S on each side of U, and shape the lines as 
represented. 

For semi-fitted front, it is always advantageous to put the 
dart as far back as possible. On this style of jacket, the dart 
line, N and W, is just left on the front part guide line, 21 
and 22. 

For a fly-front jacket, the overlap from 9 to 49, M to 48, 
and 46 to 47, is ly^ inches, and draw the line from 49, 48 
to 47. 

To draft the turn collar and lapels, draw the crease line 
from D to 51, where the turning is required; draw the shape 
of the turned-over lapels from D to E and the collar eff^ect, 
fold the paper from D to 51 underneath and trace the lapels 
and collar styles through. When the paper is unfolded, you 
have the front part edge completed and the front of the collar 
style. 

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. 

From 22i to 50 is Vui of the full neck width. Draw the 
line from 51 through 50 tO' 52 with a little curve; 52 is the 
required collar length from the back center collar seam line to 
E. Square out from 52 to 54 and give j4 inch spring at 54. 
From 52 to 53 is 1^4 inch; draw the crease line from 53 to 51. 
From 53 to 54 is i^A inches; draw the line from 54 parallel 
with the crease line to the front, which already has the shape 
from the trace marks. 

For lower openings, cut off on the collar from 51 to E 
without changino- the draft of the collar. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 51 




Diagram XX. 



S2 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XXI. 

DOUBLE-BREASTED JACKET, STORM COLLAR, 
TIGHT BACK, SEMI-FITTED FRONT. 

For this style nf overlap, it needs a -l^'incli dart at 25. as 
represented. 

From 9 to 49 is an overlap of 4% inches; from M to 48 
is y2 inch less; 3^ inches; from V to 47 is % inch less; 4 
inches; from 25 to the edge as well 4 inches. Pivot at 25 and 
sweep out the hottom line at 46, and draw the edge line from 
25 to 49, 48, and straight down through 47. 



TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. 

From 23 to 50 is V'ln full neck width. Draw the line with 
a little curve from 25 through 50 to 52. Point 52 is the re- 
quired collar length. Square out from 52 to 53, from 50 to 55, 
and from 25 to 58 square with 25 and 50. The heig'ht from 
52 to 53 is 4)/4 inches; from 25 to 58 is 3-)4 inches. Draw a 
curved line from 53 to 58. Pivot on the lines ij/^ inches from 
52 and 50 and sweep from 53 to 54, and from 55 to 56 and 57. 
From 53 to 54 is ^ of the height, 1% inches, the same from 
55 to 56, and 55 to 57. Curve the lines as represented. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



53 




Diagram XXI. 



54 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XXII. 

THREE-PIECE, THREE-QUARTER. TIGHT-FITTING 
JACKET— STAND AND TURN-DOWN COLLAR. 

Tliis draft represents the tightest fitting back to be cut 
with two pieces. R is ^/oi hip from 13. From 12 to A is J4 
waist; from A to B is Vio l^^st and 34 inch; from E to 
19 is the balance of the waist surphis, less Yi inch. From 
29 to 31 is Yi of the back depth. Draw guide lines from 
A to 31 and from B to meet previous line at the bust 
line, from E to H and from H to 19. On this draft the dart 
from A to B is 34 inch more, as in previous diagrams, there- 
fore divide the balance of 20 hip intO' three parts and add on 
Vj, from S to T and 34 each side of U. From N to O is the 
waist surplus, less .)4 inch; from W to X 34 inch more than 
from N to O. Point 32 is i inch lower than 31 from the bust 
line. Draw the dart line from L to 32. 

On drafts where the buttons shall be in the center nf the 
front, give an overlap of s^ inch. 

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. 

From 25 to 51 is '/,; full neck; from 23 to 50 is Vic, f"" 
neck. Draw guide line from 51 through 50 to 52, and measure 
the required length to 52. Scjuare out from 52 to 53, from 50 
through 23 to 56, and from 25 to 54 with the line 51 and 25. 
From 52 to 53 is the height of the collar, i-^ inches; draw 
the line from 53 to 54 parallel with the line 52 to 51. From 55 
to 56 is 34 inch, or V24 full neck ; draw the guide lines from 
53 to 56 and from 56 to 54. Square out from 53 to 57 with 
the line 56 and 53 ; square out from 54 to 58 with the line 56 
and 54. From 53 to 57 is 2 inches and give 34 inch spring at 
57; draw the line from 57 to 58 parallel with the line from 53 
to 56 and 54. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



55 




Diagram XXII. 



:;6 Merz's Practical Cutting System 

/ i 



Diagram XXIII. 

TWO-PIECE LONG COAT WITH SHAWL COLLAR. 

This draft is about tlie same as Diagram XVIII. The hip 
center point, R, is V12 h'P ^^om 13. Draw straight line from 
5 tlirough R to 44. H is in the center from 16 and 28 ; on each 
side of H is 34 inch more to make this garment very loose. 
Draw perpendicular line from H to establish U. Measure the 
hip from 13 to 22, which is 16^4 inches; balance 3^ inches 
of 20 hip, and 1J/2 inches for ease is the addition 5J4 inches 
from T to S, or 2^ inches each side of U. Draw the lines as 
represented. Pivot at H and sweep the length from 45 to the 
Iiack and forepart line. For a loose front without dart, from 
10 to M is I inch. Draw straight front center line from 9 
through M to 46. The edge around the bust line is to be kept 
short, therefore lengthen J4 inch at 46. From g to 48 and M 
to 47 is 2V2 inches for ()\-erlap. Draw straight line from 48 
through 47 to the Ixittdni. 

TO DRAFT THE SHAWL COLLAR. 

Draw first the crease line from 49 to 51, then the st3de 
effect of the turned-over collar from 49 to 58, and the back 
line from 57 to 56. Turn over the lapel in the line from 49 
to 51 and draw the line from 51 to 59. Lay a piece of paper 
underneath and. trace off the lines from 51 to 59, to 58, .to 23, 
and to 51 ; the same with the back piece, from 57 to 56. to 5, 
to 4, and to 57. Cut these pieces out to use for the C(~>llar draft. 

I-'rcim 23 to 50 is Vui f"" neck. Draw the line from 51 
through 50 to 52 with a little curve. Having the length of the 
collar estaljlished, stiuare out from 52 to 53 and from 50 
through 23. From 52 to 53 is 2j^ inches, from 50 to 54 is 2j4 
inches. Draw the crease line in the center of 52 and 53, and 
in the center of 50 and 34 to 51. Take the back piece, lay the 
point 5 to the square line 53 and point 4 to 54, draw the line 
yi inch for spring outside of 53 and 56, round the edge of the 
pattern from 56 to 57 and from 57 to* the square line between 
55 and 5-]. Lay the front piece even with 51 and point 23 to 
55 and draw the line from square line to 58. from 58 around 
the pattern to 59 and back to 51. The -H inch more than the 
pattern at 58 and }i inch at 57 and 56 is a required fullness 
for the surface upon the coat. The necessary J/ inch from 54 
to 55 is granted by the draft itself. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 57 




Diagram XXIII. 



58 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XXTV. 

INVERNESS— I,OOSE FRONTED, THREE-QUARTER. 
TIGHT BACK, TURN COLLAR CLOSED IN FRONT. 

For the back parts, tlie waist and hip divisions are ob- 
tained in the same manner as explained in Diagram XXII, and 
for the front center hne as explained in Diagrams XVIII and 
XXIII. Transfer the shoulder seams as explained in Dia- 
gram XVIII. Draw guide line from X to 29, and draw the 
line from S to T i inch deeper than usual armhole. 

TO DRAFT THE CAPE. 

Lay the cut-out back, point 29, to the .front shoulder, 
point 30, so that the collar and shoulder, point 4, is J/^ bust 
distance from 23 to draw a guide line from Z, X, Y to 30. 
Pivot at 23 to sweep the desired length from 46 to 47, and 
shape the line at 47 and 46, as represented. Draw the line 
from 30 to A with the direction of the armhole (from 30 to A 
is 2 inches) ; draw the line from A to i square with previous 
line (from A to i is i')4 inches) and transfer the length from 
1 to B, which is •;4 inch from A. From B to C is 2 inches; 
from C to D is -^4 inch dart ; from D to E is 2 inches, and from 
E to F is ;)4 inch dart. From i to 2 is 2^ inches, and 2 to 3 
is 2% inches. Draw the lines as represented. Draw the front 
line of the cape ^4 inch from 25 to 49, which is ^ inches from 
9; to 48, which is i inch from front center, M. 

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR. 

From 25 to 51 is Vi- fnll neck, from 23 to 50 is Vn; fnl' 
neck, and 52 is the neck length. Draw the line from 50 through 
23 to 54 square with 51 anil 50. From 54 to 55 is one-half of 
the 3^4 inches height. Draw the line from 50 to 52 square 
with 55 and 50. Square out from 52 to 53 and give ^-4 inch 
spring at 53. Draw the crease line 1^4 inches from 52 to 25. 
Draw the line from 25 to 56 square with the crease line. From 
25 to 56 is 2^ inches, from 52 to 53 is 3I4 inches. Draw 
curved line from 53 to 56. 



For Ladies' jackets and Cloaks. 



59 



% z 



;4T 



51 



Aft 



Diagram XXIV. 



6o Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XXV. 

MARINE BLOUSE. 

One-piece back for Blouses, Etons, or Zouaves, the l)ack 
center from 12 is J/2 incli more to be taken out and curve the 
back center line from 14 to 8, as represented. 

From 8 to E is J^ waist ; draw the shorter waist line from 
8 to E. From E to 19 is the balance of the back waist surplus. 
Transfer the center of E and 19 to establish H : draw the lines 
from H to E and from H to 19. 

The front center line, M, is i inch from 10 for every front 
part without dart. Draw the waist line from M to 19. From 
M to V and N to 22 is i>)4 inches for blousing. Draw the line 
from V through 22 with a curve to 19, as represented. Point 

49 is 2^ inches from the straight line, for overlap. Draw the 
opening line from 49 to 51 and the edge line from 49 to V. 

To draft the standing under collar, from 23 to 50 is '/i,., 
full neck. Draw the line, with a little curve, from 51 through 

50 to 52, which is the required length. From 52 to 53 is i)^ 
inches high. Square out from 52 to 53 and draw the line from 
53 I" 51. <is represented. 

FOR THE MARINE COLLAR. 
Draw the line from O to I, square out from 5 to G, and 
from 4 to F. From 5 to G and from 4 to F is ij4 inches. 
Draw the top line from G to F, the shoulder line from F to I, 
which is % inch from 4, and I is i inch from the back shoulder 
line. Draw the line from G to O, which is ^4 inch from 5, 
parallel with the back center to O and curve the style line from 
O to I. The outside lines from 5 and 4, I, O', is a required full- 
ness for the surface upon the blouse. Transfer the shoulder 
width, I to K, and draw the style line from K to 49, and the 
front shoulder line from K to 23 and to L. From 23 to L is 
the same as from 4 t(j-F ; draw the line frc.im L to 51. 

TO DRAFT THE SKIRT. 

Draw a straight line from i to 2, square in from M to N 
and from 2 to J, which is 53/2 inches from M. From M to N 
is Ye waist. Draw the line from N to 7 parallel with previous 
line. From N to 7 is J/ waist. Pivot at 7 and sweep the waist 
line from N to 12 and the hip line from J to R. 

Measure the hip 20 and Yz inch ease from 2 to R. Draw 
straight line from 7 to R, shape the line from Z to 8 and the 
shorter waist effect from 8 to the sweep line and to S. which is 
1Y2 inches fnim M on ;dl drafts. Draw the stvle line from 
S to Z. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



6i 




Diagram XXV. 



Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XXVI. 
FULL CAPE AND HOOD. 

For this draft, the only required measure is the neck 
width, 6^ inches. 

Draw straight line from i to 2, and scjuare line from 3 
to 4. From 3 to 5 is % full neck, 2^4 inches; from 5 to 6 is 
Ys full neck, 4J/ inches ; from 6 to 4 is 3% inch on every draft. 

Pivot at point 3 and draw circular lines from 5 to 9 and 
from 5 to 10; the shoulder line from 4 to i and from 4 to 2; 
and the length line from 11 to 12. 

From I to 7 and from 2 to 8 is }i full neck, i ^,i inches. 
Draw the lines from 9 through 8 to establish 12, and from 10 
through 7 tO' establish 11. At the front, from g to 25 is _^ 
inch; from 12 to 13 is i inch on every draft. Draw the collar 
line from 25 to the circular line and at the back center, 10, Vg 
inch from 9, and from 13 to the circular line as represented. 
The draft will measure y2 inch more than 6-)/\ neck, and re- 
cjuires same for surface of working parts. 

TO DRAFT THE HOOD. 

From 10 to 15 is full neck less % = nyi inches; square 
out from 15 to 17, which is the same, 11^4 inches from 15; 
square out from 17 to establish 19. From 17 to 18 is 3^, full 
neck, 2^ inches, in the center of 15 and 17 is 20. Draw the 
curved lines from 25 to 19 and ivmu 18 to 20. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 63 




64 Merz's Practicat. Cutting System 



Diagram XXVII. 

CAPE WITH TWO DARTS AND STORM COLLAR. 

See Diagram XXVI. for the dart lines. From 10 to 21 
is ]/(, full! neck; from 21 to 22 is % full neck, 2% inches each. 
From 4 to A is Y^ full neck, i Y4 inches, and from A to B is 
Yi full neck, 4'/ inches. Draw guide lines from 21 through 
B to establish 24, and from 22 through A to establish 23. Cut 
open the lines from 22 to A, and from 21 to B, and fold the 
paper in the lines from A to 23 and from B to 24. Dia- 
gram XXVII. shows the lines folded from A to 23 and from 
B to '24; the dart lines open from 22 to C and from 21 to D, 
Yd full neck, 2^4 inches each. 

TO DRAFT TEE COLLAR. 

From 25 to 51 is V,^ full neck. Square out the lines from 
25 to J with the point 51 and 25, square out from 22 to I with 
the point 51 and 22; square out the lines from C and 21 to 
H and G, and square out the lines from D and 10 to F and E. 
The square points for the height are 2,Y-i inches each. For the 
back top line it is Y^ '"ch more, from E to K is j4 of the 
height, I inch for spring, and 3^ of the height on each side of 
F, G, H and I. Curve the lines as represented. 

For one dart, open the square line from 5 to 4, but it 
should not be opened more than ],{^ full neck width, 3.\s inches, 
for 13,' J inches full measure. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 65 




Diagram XXVII. 



66 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



Diagram XXVIII. 
OPERA CLOAK. 

All lines, including circular lines, from i to 9 and 25 are 
the same aS explained in Diagram XXVI. 

Square out the line from 3 to H, which is the required 
skirt length from 5, and draw circular line from H to A, both 
sides, pivoting at point 3. 

From 3 to 5 is 3^ full neck, 2^ inches; from 5 to 6 is J^ 
full neck, 4^ inches; from 6 to G is 3/2 inch, the same as in 
Diagram XXVI. From G to J is 15 inches, three times the 
length as from 5 to G. Square out the lines from G to A, both 
sides, and square out from J to K and from J to L, which is 
full neck, each 13^3 inches. To the back center, from G to A 
is the length of the yoke piece from G to 7. To the front center, 
A is the same length as G to 8. From A to N is Vir, f"" neck, 
and from A to M is V12 f^'-ll neck. Draw the lines from M 
through L to A, and back center line from N through K to Q. 

Divide the distance from G to A in six parts, both sides, 
as represented with letters, and the same divisions- at- the bot- 
tom sweep line. Draw the line from M to P parallel with the 
sc|uare line; from P to G to O, and with a little curve to N, 
as represented. O is the same distance from D as N is from A. 
The divisions are for the pleat lines. The shoulder or center 
pleat is y2 inch enlarged at each side of F. and the next pleats 
to it, from C to E, are therefore Y^ inch smaller; the same at 
the bottom, as represented. 

The back center, N to B. represents a pleat the same as 
from C to E, and has to be cut in fold of goods. The allow- 
ances of the goods for pleats should be just twice the distance 
of the outside box-pleat from A and B, from C and E, and F 
to F, at the top and at the bottom. 

From A to O is 3 inches, train and draw the bottom 
line as represented. 

A collarette would l>e cut after the same manner as in 
Diagram XXVII. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 67 




Diagram XXVIII. 



68 Merz's Practical Cutting System 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES. 

The proportionate measures will be useful for the study 
for drafting different sizes of patterns, as : 

PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT. 

The widths of waist and hip, to bust sizes vary in ditTerent 
localities; the same with the waist lenglhs, back and front 
depths. 

The cutter is sometinies required to cut from measures 
furnished by sellers with very little experience in taking meas- 
ures. Und«r these conditions the cutter should be furnished 
as well with an explanation about the form of the customer, as 
full bujst, hollow back, nnind hip; or round back, flat bust, 
high side hip. 

The figure for round l)ack will have a higher back depth, 
and the cutter is assured with the control measure; the con- 
trary for figures witli hollow back and full bust. The front 
depth for round-back figures will be rather less, whilst for 
erect figures the front depth will be rather more. 



For Ladies' Jackets and Cloaks. 



69 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONATE MEASURES 



1- 

(0 

m 


1- 

10 

5 
S 


a. 

I 


£ 

u 

Q 



< 
ID 


I 

(OO 

55 

-1 

> 
u 

-1 




LJ 

z 


h 
II 
< 



5z 

H 
Z 


c 
u. 


I 

H 

a 
u 

Q 

H 
Z 

K 
b. 


u 

K 

3 

U 
fS 

z 




I 
1- 


z 

Id 

> 
U 

u 

-1 


30 


22 


34 


eh 


isj'^ 


6 


12% 


20/^ 


10}^ 


18/^ 


16/^ 


32 


23 


36 


e% 


14Ji 


6j^ 


13 


20^ 


lO^A 


19A 


17 


34 


24 


38 


G% 


15^ 


6^2 


13;^ 


2i;i 


ii'A 


20^ 


17fe 


36 


25 


40 


G\ 


15% 


6% 


14 


21^ 


w'k 


2lj^ 


18 


38 


27 


42 


1% 


16 


7 


14'/2 


22^ 


12 


22j^ 


18 


40 


29 


44 


7^ 


16^^ 


7;!^ 


15 


22^ 


12;^ 


23^ 


18)4 


42 


31 


46 


^% 


16X 


7^2 


I5J& 


22j^ 


127g 


24A 


isJi 


44 


33 


48 


1% 


lej^ 


7% 


16 


23 


13j!i 


25 


18^2 


46 


35 


50 


7% 


16^i 


8 


ie% 


23X 


13fg 


26 


la;^ 


48 


37 


52 


8 


16^ 


q'A 


17 


23^ 


14 


27 


18^ 


50 


39 


54 


8A 


16^ 


s% 


17/2 


23^ 


14^ 


28 


18% 



yo Merz's Practical Cutting System 



LAYING OUT. 

The back pieces lay upon the material with the nap so that 
the bust line run is with cross thread of the material. The 
fore part should be laid upon the material so that the fore-part 
guide line run is with a lengthwise thread of the material. 

The overarm sleeve should be laid with both front seam 
points on the lengthwise thread of the material. 

For the underarm sleeve, lay the back seam from bottom 
to the elbow with a lengthwise thread. 

The top collar should be laid on crease edge, and the under 
collar on the bias so that point 53 and 50 lays with a cross or 
lengthwise thread. (See Diagram XX. for the points.). 

Sometimes there are styles with small back pieces and the 
back center seamless. In these styles the material has to be 
shaped to the pattern. 

When laying the pattern upon the material, point 5 and R 
to the crease edge ; make a mark on 5, collar line, and mark the 
length on S. (See Diagram X. for the points 5, R, S.) This 
is the required length. Mark from the bottom up to the waist 
notch by keeping the back center of the pattern on the crease 
edge, then mark in the same manner from the previous collar 
seam mark downwards to the previous waist notch. 



MR 13 ISfS 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 063 817 1 



